In a small restaurant in Senegal’s seaside capital Dakar, Thiane Ngom has risen early to cook up a batch of thiebou dieune, the country’s most popular dish, before the lunch rush. Meaning “rice with fish” in Senegal’s dominant language Wolof, thiebou dieune takes about three hours to prepare, and is commonly served at lunch in the West African nation. To the sound of Senegal’s popular Mbalax music, the 53-year-old restaurant owner washes and prepares onions, garlic, carrots and aubergines to go with the fish and rice. As the onions crackle in oil, Ngom’s face lights up when she learns that thi…

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